It comes as no surprise that these isolated communitiesEurope’s version of Central Asia’s tribal areashave also kept customs that reach deep into their pagan past.
One of the most remarkable festivals in Europe takes place here on the first Saturday in February.
It’s the burning of Hom Strom, Man of Straw in the local dialect, echoing pagan sacrificial traditions that sit uncomfortably with us today.
There are echoes of “The Wicker Man,” the cult 1973 British horror film in which a cop searching for a missing girl stumbles into a pagan ritual that involves a giant burning wooden statue.
Only this time it’s on ice.
Of course, unlike the film, no sacrifice will take place tonight.
Even the hymn sung during the ritual had to mollify the Catholic Church: “The flames that rise high/ bring praise to Our Lord” states the fourth stanza explicitly, just in case anyone was thinking of placating an old pagan snow god.
–
Visiting Scuol
The quickest way to visit Scuol is by train from Zurich changing at Landquart (2 hours, 38min; $33).
The timing is such that the connection is almost instantaneous.
There’s an extensive ski area at Scuol with 80 kilometers of runs (day pass $55).
There are also natural spa springs, accessed via covered galleries from three hotels: Belvair (Stradun 169, Scuol; +41 81 861 25 00), Belvedere (Stradun 330, Scuol; +41 81 861 06 06) and Guardaval (Vi 383, Scuol; +41 81 861 09 09).
John Malathronas is a London-based travel writer and photographer. He’s written or co-written 15 books, including the “Rough Guide to Europe.”
