La Morada’s married owners, Natalia Mendez and Antonio Saavedra, were once farmers in the village of San Miguel Ahuehuetitlán in northwestern Oaxaca, where their children learned to speak Mixtec, the local indigenous language, before Spanish.”
Hungry City
By LIGAYA MISHAN
The meatball is burly but yields in an instant, spilling its secret: a whole green olive, buried at the center. The olive is a small, powerful thing, radiating salt and vinegar, almost pickling the meat from the inside, transfiguring it.
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RESERVATIONS Accepted.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS The entrance is up a slight ramp from the sidewalk; the restroom is narrow and does not have a handrail.
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