If the debate around “The Dress” has taught us anything, it’s that the way we see color can be starkly different. For the record, I’m #TeamBlueAndBlack.
That perception is being tested yet again after blackface was allegedly spotted on the runway during Milan Fashion Week.
While presenting his Fall 2015 collection, Claudio Cutugno decided to cover his models’ faces in black paint, with glitter on top. The Italian designer was reportedly inspired by the artist Emilio Isgrò, who is known for his work with bees. Therefore, the models’ blackened makeup was intended to depict their faces being swarmed by the insects.
The images have many media outlets crying foul and accusing the designer of employing the racially insensitive act of blackface. Refinery29 posed the question: “Why do people keep doing this?” And added, “It must be knowingly and for the attention, because we can’t imagine that there is really anyone out there ignorant enough to think that this has no racist connotations.” A journalist over at Bustle was also shocked, writing, “I’m all for unique and interesting styles that command attention, but come on — you can hardly see the models’ faces. Not to mention that this is literally blackface, which is, you know, racist.”
I don’t blame those journalists, my knee-jerk reaction was the same. However, as a black woman who has covered too many instances of blackface within fashion industry, I must say that this most recent accusation looks and feels very different to me. After reading about the origin of Cutugno’s inspiration, it seems clear his intentions weren’t malicious or racially motivated. It would be a shame to ask all creatives to refrain from placing black paint on the body or face of a non-black person when they truly mean no harm.
We should and must always consider the reference. Claire Sulmers, the editor-in-chief of FashionBombDaily.com, who is African-American, shares our sentiment. She wrote, “Is it dark paint on a face? Yes. But is he mocking African culture, or using black paint in place of a black person? No.”
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