They were on the hunt again, though not for deer or waterfowl or the usual Tennessee fare.
The man and his curly-haired dog were searching for something fancier: Tuber melanosporum or black Périgord truffles.
Black truffles are one of the most sought after (and expensive) delicacies in the world. Often referred to as a “black diamond,” the subterranean fungus can retail for $1,000 a pound or cost a diner upward of $75 extra for a simple shaving on a dish of creamy pasta or slow-scrambled eggs.
Sanford and Tom’s morning hunt proved fruitless. But the pair has had better luck than most sniffing out truffles on American soil — a relatively new and wholly unpredictable ground for cultivation.
“This is not something where you just plant your trees and wait for your fortune to grow,” Sanford said as Tom trotted behind him.
Truffles are a funny fungus; they grow underground, typically among hazelnut and oak trees, and keep most of their secrets there with them. There is a primitive understanding of the climactic and soil conditions required for the fungus to flourish, but cultivation methods are far from foolproof. Stateside, those practices are in their infancy.
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If it seems like a wild goose chase, that’s because it is. But Tom is a Lagotto Romagnolo; he not only enjoys the chase — it’s in his DNA. According to the American Kennel Club, Tom’s breed is the only one recognized as a “specialized truffle searcher.”
“We wouldn’t be talking about any of this if it wasn’t for Tom,” Sanford said. “He has really put everything we’re talking about in cultivating truffles in North America on the map.”
Working like a dog at a Long Island vineyard
Now 13 years old, Tom is passing the baton through his bloodline by breeding and sharing his skills. He and Sanford travel around the country to help train other canines in areas like Oregon with an eye on the truffle prize.
At Blackberry and every where else, they’re hoping it’s not a matter of if, but when, a consistent yield will happen.
As they say, every dog will have its day.
