‘A beautiful life’: The Australian woman who became a geisha

It could be a scene from a print by 19th century Japanese artist Hokusai, but behind the evocative image is a modern story.

Leading the four through the snows of Niseko, the ski resort on the northern island of Hokkaido, is Fiona Graham. She’s an Australian citizen who first moved to Japan when she was just 15 and in 2007 became a geisha.

Now working and living as Sayuki, she offers those intrigued by the geisha tradition a glimpse into their enigmatic world by hosting banquets and offering visitors the chance to watch them practice their arts.

Her initial fascination with geisha came when working as a filmmaker pitching a documentary on the subject.

She eschewed the detachment gained through a camera lens, claiming that only by becoming one herself could she really get to know their traditions and skills.

“I think those that work in the geisha industry are very good at hiding (the world from outsiders).”

For Downer, geisha remain the embodiment of refinement and grace and are still the custodians of the traditional Japanese art forms.

And far from being painted courtesans, their role as artists and professional companions makes them rather formidable, believes Downer.

“These are really impressive women. Walking down the street with them I felt really proud.”

Sayuki‘s tour; +81 90 6046 9708; from JPY30,000 ($250)

CNN