Eat
By FRANCIS LAM
I thought I would talk with Samuel Obeng about the smoky spinach stew the chefs serve at his Bronx restaurant, Papaye, but he steered the conversation toward weightier matters. “I want to set up an African cultural center here in the Bronx,” he told me. “In Manhattan, they have a museum about sex! So why can’t I have an African museum? We can teach our kids how people back in Ghana dress, how they talk. We can teach our kids how to drum.”
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A version of this article appears in print on March 1, 2015, on page MM26 of the Sunday Magazine with the headline: More Than a Name. Today’s Paper|Subscribe
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