Insider Guide: Best of Toulouse

North west of the city are the airport and the Airbus factorya must for aviation geeks.

Hotels

Luxury

Grand Hotel de l’Opera

For those seeking opulence, the Grand Hotel delivers.

Smack-bang in the center of the old town, in the main square in front of the Opera, this traditional favorite is for people who like their luxury swathed in red velvet drapes, their chairs deeply padded and their residences decorated with balconies and balustrades.

Grand Hotel de l’Opera, 1, Place du Capitole, 31000 Toulouse; +33 (0)5 61 21 82 66; from $278 per night

Pullman Toulouse Centre

This sleek business hotel is conveniently close to the central business district, but not so far from the old town that the delights of the center are out of reach.

Rooms are comfortable and a decent size and the lounge areas are classy and minimalist.

Service is suitably slick.

Pullman Toulouse Centre, 84, allees Jean Jaures, 31000 Toulouse; +33 (0)5 61 10 23 51; from $174 per night

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Mid-range

Hotel des Arts

This sweet boutique hotel was revamped recently and has the feel of somewhere that’s being continually improved.

It’s perfectly placed in the center of town, and though rooms are small, it’s clean, friendly and very well priced for the location.

Hotel des Arts, 1, Bis rue Cantegril, 31000 Toulouse; +33 (0)5 61 23 36 21; from $100 per night

Hotel des Beaux Arts

Set right by the Garonne and the old town, this smart hotel has an eclectic, boutique feel and a great location.

Again, rooms are on the small side, but clean and comfortable, and some have river views.

The bar is popular at sunset and the restaurant has a decent reputation.

Hotel des Beaux Arts, 1 Place du Pont Neuf, 31000 Toulouse; +33 (0)5 34 45 42 42; from $160 per night

the quality and range of Toulouse’s vintage stores make them magnets for vintage magpies.

Groucho’s antique cabinets are packed with berets, designer silk scarves, wallets and leather gloves.

Nearby Le Grenier d’Anaiis has a good selection of vintage cotton dresses, furs and household linens.

The Vintage Family has an intriguing range of 1950s stationery and haberdashery.

All sell designer silk ties for around €10-12 ($13.60-16.30) each.

Groucho, 39 Rue Peyrolieres 31000 Toulouse; +33 (0)5 61 21 22 07; Monday 2-7 p.m., Tuesday-Saturday 10.30 a.m.-7 p.m.; budget-moderate

Le Grenier d’Anaiis, 54 rue Peyrolieres, 31000 Toulouse; +33 (0)5 62 30 07 16; Tuesday-Friday 10.30 a.m.-1.30 p.m. and 2.30-7.15 p.m., Saturday 10.30 a.m.-7.15 p.m.; budget-moderate

The Vintage Family, 28 rue Joseph Lakanal, 31000 Toulouse; +33 (0)9 80 83 49 88; Tuesday-Friday 11 a.m.-1 p.m. and 2.30 p.m.-7 p.m., Saturday 11 a.m.-7 p.m.; budget-moderate

Santa Rosa Parfumerie

Santa Rosa is an old-school apothecary, its dark wood interior filled with bottles and vials that seem to hold the promise of something more transformative than simple smells.

Big names such as Frederic Malle, Penhaligons and Aqua di Parma sit alongside cult skincare from the likes of the Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy.

Santa Rosa Parfumerie, 11 Rue Antonin Mercie, 31000 Toulouse; +33 (0)5 61 29 84 81; Monday 2-7 p.m., Tuesday-Saturday 10.30 a.m.-7 p.m.; moderate-expensive

Le Paradis Gourmand

Le Paradis Gourmand is crammed with enough sweet treats to make an oompa loompa jealous — dark chocolate animals, jars of striped candy canes and vintage-style tins of aniseed pastilles are all on offer here. Specialties of the region include chocolate and bonbons flavored with violet, a Toulouse tradition.

Le Paradis Gourmand, 45 Rue des Tourneurs, 31000 Toulouse; +33 (0)5 61 22 05 77; Monday 2-7 p.m., Tuesday-Saturday 10 a.m.-7 p.m.; budget

Fromagerie Betty

Betty’s, in the Victor Hugo and Carmes markets, will satisfy even the most hardcore cheese fanatic.

From unpasteurized hard cheeses from the Pyranees to soft, unctuous, melting Bries, there are literally hundreds of different carefully chosen and distinct cheeses from across France.

Fromagerie Betty, 21 Place Victor Hugo, 31000 Toulouse; +33 (0)5 61 22 17 81; Tuesday-Thursday 9.30 a.m.-1.15 pm and 3.30-7.15 p.m., Friday-Saturday 9.30 a.m.-7.30 p.m., Sunday 9.30 a.m.-1.15 p.m.; budget

Marche Victor Hugo, Place Victor Hugo, 31000 Toulouse; +33 (0)5 61 22 17 81; Tuesday-Sunday 7 a.m.-2 p.m.; budget

Marche des Carmes, Place des Carmes, 31000 Toulouse; +33 (0) 5 34 31 65 92; Tuesday-Sunday 7 a.m.-1.30 p.m.; budget

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