But other than knowing that it tastes great and costs a lot, many tourists turn up with little knowledge of what to expect from Japanese beef.
Considered the caviar of beef in Japan, Wagyu (which literally means “Japanese cow”) refers to specific breeds of cattle that come from a direct, traceable and pure bloodline.
There are four Wagyu breeds: black (accounting for more than 90% of Wagyu beef), brown/red, shorthorn and polled.
In recent years, efficient marketing efforts have elevated Wagyu to near-divine status among foodies.
But they’ve also led to confusion about what Wagyu is and what separates Wagyu beef from the even-more heralded Kobe beef.
Here’s help for beef eaters visiting Japan.
What is Wagyu beef?
For more than 200 years during the Edo Period (1603-1867), Japan’s isolation from the outside world ensured the purity of its livestock, which over time became more and more homogenized.
When the country opened to world trade in the subsequent Meiji Era, Wagyu breeding accelerated.
Unlike cattle in other countries, which are often bred for a range of traits, Wagyu were and are raised with one goal in mind: supreme flavor.
“Genetics is everything,” says Jason Morgan, owner of The Meat Guy, a Nagoya-based meat importing business.
Wagyu’s striking characteristic is its pervasive marbling.
–
In fact, only .06% of beef consumed in Japan bears the Kobe distinction, and only 3,000 cattle each year are certified as Kobe grade.
It wasn’t until February 2012 that the first Kobe beef shipment was sent outside Japan — to Macau.
The first (small) export to the United States was in November 2012.
Wagyu beef types are named for the region in which the cattle are raised, including, confusingly, Kobe.
For the impressive level of marbling in its Wagyu beef, the Kansai region produces the three “king” varieties: Matsusaka, Kobe and Ohmi.
However, beef from other areas can be equally tasty, says Lee of the Oak Door.
Kumamoto Wagyu, for example, comes from the rare Japanese brown breed and is a good choice for those seeking a leaner cut.
Although many ranching outfits in Australia and the United States are now raising Wagyu crossbreeds, only four facilities in Japan are certified to export Wagyu beef to the United States.
So, the easiest and tastiest place to get authentic Wagyu beef remains Japan.
Just one more reason to visit.
Oak Door Steakhouse, Grand Hyatt Tokyo, 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-Ku, Tokyo; +81 3 4333 8784
